Turning 60 in Spain and Marrakesh
If you want to understand why
Andalusia is my favorite part of Spain, you have to understand that it doesn't
feel entirely European. It feels like a crossroads, like a place where Africa
and the Middle East and the Mediterranean all pressed themselves into the stone
and the music and the food and never fully left. That is because they didn't.
Andalusia was shaped by a succession
of civilizations, Phoenicians, Romans, Visigoths, but it was the Berber
Muslims, the Moors, who left the most indelible mark. They called it Al-Andalus, and they ruled for nearly
800 years. Eight centuries of architecture, agriculture, philosophy, poetry,
and culinary tradition soaked into this land. You can still taste it. You can
still hear it.
On our last trip through Spain, Greg,
Tracy, and I explored western Andalusia, Seville, Cádiz, and the white villages
of the interior. This time, we are driving from Madrid south through eastern
Andalusia, taking our time through the small towns and wild nature of the
Sierra Nevada corridor before landing in Granada. I want the road version, the
kind where you pull over because a village looks interesting, where you find
lunch somewhere that doesn't have a website.
We are staying in Granada, the crown
jewel of that Moorish world, and taking day trips through the countryside and
nature preserves. The Alhambra palace sits above the city
like a dream you can walk through — its geometry, water, and light a testament
to a civilization that understood beauty as a form of devotion. Down the hill
in Córdoba stands the Great Mosque,
over 1,200 years old, its forest of candy-striped arches still arresting in a
way no photograph fully captures. The Alcázar
in Seville, which we visited last time, is more of the same architectural
genius, a conversation between cultures, layer upon layer of human imagination.
And then there is flamenco. Born here
in Andalusia and deeply rooted in the Moorish musical tradition, the bent
notes, the modal scales, the ache in it. You hear that same quality in Arabic
classical music, in the call to prayer, in the strings of an oud. It is not a coincidence.
It is an inheritance. Pablo Picasso was born in Málaga, just down the coast,
and you can feel in his work that same restless visual energy that Andalusia
produces in people, this place where civilizations collided and made something
entirely new.
That is why I keep coming
back; this is why I do deep dives
into the history of the places we travel. I am a curious traveler; I like to
know the who, what, when, and where of a culture, and how it evolved in
relation to its landscapes, nature, and migrations. We will spend a handful of
days in this region before heading off to Marrakesh. Marrakesh sits on the African
continent in North Africa, specifically in the Maghreb, the Arabic term for
the far northwestern corner of Africa. Marrakesh itself was founded in 1062
and was once a major trading hub for Saharan caravans carrying gold and salt
northward. Its ancient medina was designated a UNESCO World Heritage
Site in 1985.
This is how I am turning 60. In beauty…Jeffrey
As always, a pleasure to enjoy an informative collection of experiences from a skilled and perceptive author...
ReplyDeleteThank you for this generosity. To know the world is certainly to know where each of us are
May your added year add to your extended grace, wisdom, and beauty in life-- ours and yours--