Canals, Curanderos, and Bicycles in the Sonoran Desert
I left the house today at 3:30 in the morning, the kind of hour that still belongs to owls, street sweepers, and the last whispers of someone else’s dream. At this hour, I can often feel tens of thousands of dreamers tossing and turning in their sleepscapes. The asphalt was warm under my tires, holding the memory of yesterday’s heat like a low fever. Phoenix at that hour isn’t quiet so much as suspended. The traffic lights still cycle their colors, but no one’s asking anything of them yet. I clipped in, rolled forward, and felt something unlock in my legs that had been waiting a long time for this. I meant to walk. That was the plan. But the water called louder than my own routine, like a distant drum I could feel in my ribs. So instead of the usual route, I started tracing the canals, letting the bike pull me into that old rhythm, the one my body still knows better than most things: balance, push, glide, breathe. The Arizona Canal spread out beside me, a hard line of con...